Sufi Srinagar

Kashmir has been home to many Sufis (Muslim saints) and there are numerous Sufi shrines in the region. The greatest influence here has been the more mystical Rishi order named after Nund Rishi, which evolved in the valley beginning in the fifteenth century and was probably influenced by both the Hinduism and Buddhism that prevailed in the region before then. I visited three major Sufi shrines in Kashmir's capital city Srinagar: Makhdoom Sahib, Shah-i-Hamadan and and Pir Dastgir Sahib. All are beautiful, interesting and have fascinating vibes, but it's Pir Dastgir that moved me most.

Srinagar is a bustling and noisy city, but stepping into Pir Dastgir the outside just melts away. After removing shoes and giving a small donation, people enter the shrine through two doors from where strings of chains connected to thick brass disks engraved with writings from the Koran are hung. As people pass through the doors they touch the disk and chains and then gently rub their hands over their faces and bodies with the energy or blessings from them. It looks and feels like a kind of purification ritual. Each person does it slightly different and parents do it to their children. As people exit the shrine they walk through the doors backwards and repeat the ritual, often touching (and sometimes kissing and even licking) the floor, doors and walls as they go. It's absolutely mesmerizing to watch.

Inside the shrine is a large room with glass windows that houses the tomb of Pir Dastgir. People surround the windows in prayer. There are some smaller tombs in a different room, and separate prayer rooms for men and women. Emotionally the shrine is very intense. Crying, wailing and sadness were present every time I visited. Certainly some of that can be attributed to the violence that has plagued Kashmir for so long. It felt like a space of collective grief. At first I was hesitant to photograph, but I kept my heart open, smiled, said "Salaam aleikum" to everyone and was warmly welcomed. Some women shook and kissed my hand, and when I reciprocated they gave me big bear hugs and touched their hands to their hearts. It was very emotional for me too.

It's clear that Srinagar has suffered immensely from the conflict. It feels stagnated about 20 years, and the calls to prayer felt heavier and sadder than I've ever heard them before. Dal Lake is still the jewel of Srinagar, although it's clearly seen better days. It still has the elaborately carved wooden houseboats from the British era, the brightly painted shakiras that act as both water taxis and lounges for a few scattered tourists, the floating vegetable and flower markets, huge lotus patches, long canals, little shops and people going about their lives. In the end that was the most interesting to me, just saying "Salaam aleikum!" with a big smile to all the people out there, and getting it right back at me. I was happy to visit Kashmir, and also happy to leave.

Next: Hindu Pilgrims