Julie HallPhotography

The Golden Temple

Harimandir Sahib, famously known as the Golden Temple and most sacred shrine of the Sikh faith, offers a singular experience of faith, community and culture in India.

Sikhism professes the equality of all people and rejects discrimination on the basis of religion, race, caste or gender. The religion emerged during the 15th century in the Punjab region that today spans India and Pakistan. Its founder, Shri Guru Nanak Dev Ji, strongly rejected the Hindu caste system, polytheism and all forms of asceticism. He preached devotion to a single God, the brotherhood of man and commitment to community service. Ten gurus followed Guru Nanak, and their collective teachings are enshrined in the Sikh holy book Sri Guru Granth Sahib, which is housed inside the Golden Temple and treated as a living guru.

The Golden Temple is a mixture of Islamic and Hindu architectural styles. The upper half is plated with pure gold and the Golden Dome that sits on top of the temple is shaped like an inverted lotus. The water surrounding the temple is a sacred pool known as Amrit Sarovar (the Pool of Immortal Nectar), and pilgrims take dips in the pool from dawn to dusk. The temple is reached via a walkway across the pool. No photography is allowed inside but it's a fascinating scene where scriptures from the holy book are sung and music is played to an audience of people sitting on the floor. Peaceful, welcoming vibes abound.

Sikh men traditionally wear turbans, and the Golden Temple is frequented by Sikhs wearing enormous turbans made of up to 30 meters of cloth. These men are baptized (Khalsa) Sikhs who follow the famous five K's: Kachera (a specific style of cotton underwear), Kara (an iron bracelet), Kirpan (a strapped curved sword), Kanga (a wooden comb) and Kesh (uncut hair).

A distinct feature of all Sikh temples and the living embodiment of their faith is the langar, a volunteer-run kitchen that serves free vegetarian meals to all. The langar at the Golden Temple is the largest volunteer kitchen in the world, serving approximately 80,000 people a day and probably a million or more on holidays. It's open 24-hours a day, everyone sits on the floor to eat, and anyone can pitch in and help, and they do. Its every Sikh's duty. Surrounding the dining hall are huge areas where people peel and chop vegetables, make chapatis, cook lentils in huge cauldrons, and collect and wash dishes. Hindus, women, and people with physical disabilities regularly volunteer at the langar.

Many of the images shown here were made during Bandi Chhorh Diwas, a Sikh holiday celebrated on the same day as Diwali. Over a million people visit the temple at that time, including thousands of Hindu pilgrims on their return journey (by foot) from the Amarnath cave in the Himalayas, which takes place a few months earlier. People are allowed to sleep at the Golden Temple inside the dormitories and outside around the temple complex. When I visited it was packed to the hilt with all kinds of people. The mood was festive and devout, candles were lit all around the temple, families were together, cameras clicked away and everyone seemed to be having a wonderful time.

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