The Blind Sufi
Today Mr. Guru invited me to visit a highly respected local Sufi, Rahman Sahib, a descendant of a major Sufi saint who heals people from illnesses, advises them on all sorts of decisions (including the highest people in Srinagar), and happens to be blind. Despite that, he can apparently read people like a book. I [...]
Dal Lake
Dal Lake is still the jewel of Srinagar, despite the fact that it’s clearly seen better days. There are the elaborately carved wooden houseboats from the British era, some immaculately maintained and others abandoned and beautifully decayed; the shakiras, brightly painted gondola-like boats that act as both taxis and luxury lounges for tourists; the floating [...]
Kashmir: First Impressions
After a painfully uncomfortable 18-hour jeep ride from Leh, I arrived in Kashmir this morning, on the last day of Eid, which marks the end of Ramadam. It’s a major holiday, all the shops are closed and the people of the city are in a festive mood. Girls are decked out in sparkling dresses, packs [...]
